Archive for October, 2010

Green tomato chutney

6 October 2010

Because every time I see green tomatoes I feel compelled to buy some…

Unripe green tomatoes (not the heirloom variety) usually appear toward the end of tomato season, in early fall. Tomatoes that remain in abundance on the vines but may not get a chance to ripen are picked green before the cold weather sets in.

I buy green tomatoes every year at least once, just for the pleasure of seizing the fleeting moment. I have made green tomato jam, which I remember from my childhood; I have improvised fried green tomatoes, after seeing the movie; this year I decided to make green tomato chutney. This recipe is compiled from examples I found in a couple of my cookbooks and online.

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3 lb (1.5 kg) green tomatoes

1 lb (450 g or about 2 medium) apples

2 medium onions

1 untreated lemon

Small piece fresh ginger root (about 2 in or 5 cm long)

Handful of raisins (optional)

1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

1 1 /2 tsp salt

1 1/2 cups (300 g) brown sugar

2 cups (1/2 l) cider vinegar

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Coarsely chop tomatoes and apples, finely chop onions, and very finely chop lemon (with rind) and ginger (without peel). Place all in a large, heavy-bottom saucepan. Add raisins, cayenne, salt, sugar, and vinegar. Mix.

Slowly bring to a boil then simmer over low heat for at least 2 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking to the pan, until the chutney has thickened.

Sterilize jars in boiling water for 5 to 10 minutes. Pour hot chutney into sterilized jars and close immediately. Wait for a few weeks as chutney needs to mature.

Braised chicken legs with cherry tomatoes

3 October 2010

Tomatoes were everywhere at the market this week. Red, yellow, cherry, heirloom, green – it was hard to concentrate on anything else, especially knowing that tomatoes will be the first to disappear from the fall bounty. When I got home I realized I had bought only tomatoes.

The little cherry tomatoes from Keith’s Farm were very ripe and burst from the sun, and they immediately brought to mind a meal prepared by my friend Kate a few years ago: braised drumsticks with cherry tomatoes and lots of garlic. She made it in a large round earthenware dish she had just brought back from Morocco. It was stunningly beautiful and delicious. I’ve never asked Kate for the recipe but I have attempted to recreate it and make it quite regularly.

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For 4

Olive oil

8 chicken thighs and drumsticks (or alternatively, only thighs or only drumsticks)

2 medium onions (red or yellow)

Cherry tomatoes

7 or 8 whole garlic cloves with skin

2 bay leaves

Fresh basil, marjoram, or oregano according to taste or availability

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Preheat oven to 350°F (170°C)

In a large skillet heat olive oil and brown the chicken, a few pieces at a time. **When browning meat it’s important not to overcrowd the pan (the meat releases water and if the pan is too crowded it will stew rather than brown) and to let the meat get really nice and brown, which might take 7 to 10 minutes (light golden is not enough to caramelize and bring out the flavors).**

Remove chicken legs and set aside.

Thinly slice onions and add to pan in which you just browned the chicken (with a little more olive oil if necessary). Season with salt and pepper, and cook until golden.

In a large ovenproof dish make a bed with the onions,* add bay leaves and herbs, then the pieces of chicken, which should fit snugly without overlapping. Season with salt and pepper. Poke the cherry tomatoes with a fork or tip of a knife so the juice can escape, and throw them with the garlic cloves over the chicken. Season again. Place in oven and let simmer for about 30 to 40 minutes. The meat should fall off the bone.

*To limit the number of pans used and if the skillet is ovenproof, leave the onions in the skillet, add the herbs, chicken, tomatoes, and garlic, and slide it in the oven.

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Related posts

Roast chicken with lemon and fennel seeds

Spaghetti with cherry tomatoes, mozarella, and basil

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