In January, I’ve realised, I often cook by colour. The light is softer then, better. Colours don’t blaze, they gleam, they glow from within. It isn’t that, at other times of the year, colours don’t matter. Perhaps they are less conspicuous, or simply taken for granted!
But the sudden appearance of a fluorescent purple or a tender green against the muted winter grays instantly makes one notice. So at this time of the year, when I choose what to eat, the question is often — what colour is my mood?
Here are some of the dishes I circle back to often, by tone.
BRIGHT — Salads, of course, and citrus!
GREEN — Leaves and herbs
BROWN — Low and slow cooked things
Nettle and Quince 
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