Green tomato jam

1 October 2020

First of October. Grey skies. The earth damp from yesterday’s showers, scattered, then persistent. Today the air is mild, the nebulous cover a moderating blanket. The weather turned ten days ago, right on cue at the equinox.

Transitional moments are a catalyst for cooking inspiration. Holding on to the waning season, devising some last ways with the summer produce, while simultaneously grasping the novelty of autumn.

And few things embody this transition quite like green tomatoes, straddling the divide.

I remember just one person in my childhood who made green tomato jam, my father’s godmother Lily (from her I also have my favourite recipe for clafoutis, and an early fixation on quince in the form of cotignac). I never got Lily’s green tomato jam recipe, but the memory remains, and this method works very well.

Green tomato jam based on a recipe by Christine Ferber
The recipe takes three days, which sounds complicated, but in fact the process is broken down into three brief, manageable slots that fit easily into each the day.

1 kg green tomatoes
850g sugar
2 lemons
Optional: a pinch chilli flakes or a vanilla bean

Day 1: Wash and thinly slice the tomatoes. Add the sugar, the juice from one lemon, and the other lemon very thinly sliced by first cutting into quarters or sixths and then crosswise. If using, add the chilli flakes or vanilla bean cut lengthwise. Stir to combine and leave to macerate overnight at room temperature.

Day 2: Bring the tomato/sugar/lemon mixture to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes, skimming away any scum that may form. Let cool and place in the refrigerator overnight.

Day 3: Bring the jam to a lively simmer once again for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, sterilize a few jars in boiling water (this quantity yields just 3 to 4 jars), fill with hot jam, and seal immediately.

See also Green Tomato Chutney

Anzac biscuits

22 May 2020

Anzac day commemorates the arrival of soldiers from Australia and New Zealand (the ‘Australia and New Zealand Army Corps’ = ANZAC) at Gallipoli in 1915 to help the Allies fight against the Ottoman Empire during WWI. It has become the defining Australian national holiday, and is celebrated with Anzac biscuits.

Recipes vary, mostly just in quantities, as the ingredients are pretty set: oats, coconut flakes, butter, sugar, flour, golden syrup, and no eggs. This last point contributed to the biscuit’s history (or mythology) as overseas war care packages, since the absence of egg made them more durable.

We’re always happy to adopt traditions, especially when they involve food, and these biscuits deserve to be made much more frequently than just on Anzac day, as has become the case in this house.

I’ve tried quite a few recipes over time and tweaked them to achieve less sweetness without losing chewiness. I like how these turn out.



ANZAC biscuits recipe

100 g (1 cup) rolled oats (or porridge oats, see note in the first step)
125 g (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
80 g (2/3 cup) brown sugar
Squeeze of golden syrup (or honey)
1 Tbsp water
100 g (1 cup) flour
75 g (1 cup) unsweetened shredded coconut
1 tsp cream of tartar
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp sea salt

Blend the oats in a food processor briefly, just until they become coarsely ground but not too fine. ***I know this is an annoying extra step but it helps with chewiness. Otherwise use finer porridge oats.***

In a medium saucepan, combine the butter, sugar, golden syrup, and water, and warm over a low heat until the butter has melted and the ingredients are well combined.

Turn off the heat and add the oats, flour, coconut, cream of tartar, baking soda, and salt. Stir with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are thoroughly combined and moist throughout.

Divide the dough into two, onto narrow sheets of parchment paper. The dough will be soft but not runny — use the parchment paper to roll the dough into logs of approximately the same diameter. Place in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 160 C (325 F). Take the cookie dough logs out of the fridge and let them warm up a little at room temperature for about 15 minutes.

Once slightly softened, cut the logs into 1cm (1/3 inch) slices. Place the cookies onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and reshape the dough a bit into soft edged cookies.

Bake for 12 to 16 minutes until golden. Let cool on the baking sheet as the biscuits are still soft and crumbly when they come out of the oven.

Once cool, store in a cookie tin or glass jar. I hear they can keep for up to two weeks …


Notes from the kitchen | Ottolenghi’s spinach baked potatoes

28 February 2020

Trust me to unearth those recipes by Yotam Ottolenghi (there are one or two) that require fewer than 15 ingredients and a mere handful of steps.

In London, certainly, Ottolenghi needs no introduction, but for those, elsewhere, who may be unfamiliar, he is an Isreali-born London-based chef, restaurant-owner, and ridiculously prolific recipe writer, with regular columns in The Guardian and The New York Times, and an head-spinning array of cookbooks. To unjustly reduce his influence and fame to a running joke, his dishes often include enormous ingredient lists, many of which are specialty items not typically found in mainstream supermarkets (though now, thanks to his success, ever more so). This satirical piece in The New Yorker is an oblique — so spot-on! — insight into his recipes.

I spotted one of the less complicated ideas in his book Simple (!!), written with Tara Wigley, skipped a step, took a short-cut, and though we ate much later than planned, it was worth it!

Spinach baked potatoes adapted from Simple by Yotam Ottolenghi with Tara Wigley and Esme Howarth

Serves 6 with leftovers

6 large baking potatoes
400g spinach (I used frozen leaf spinach but fresh would be even better)
50g butter
200g sour cream or crème fraîche
180g grated sharp cheese (Gruyère, cheddar, the original recipe suggests Gorgonzola in which case use a bit less…)
2 bunches spring onions (the recipe suggests walnuts for crunch, I preferred a sharper contrast)
Salt and black pepper

Preheat the oven to 220°C (420°F).

Wash and lightly scrub the potatoes to remove any soil but without breaking the skin. Prepare a baking tray with parchment paper, stab the potatoes a few times with a fork, place on the parchment and into the oven for 1 hour or just over, until the potatoes are soft through when stabbed with a small knife.

Meanwhile, cook the spinach: —If using fresh spinach, wash the leaves thoroughly of any grit, remove the rough stalks, and cut into strips. In a medium saucepan, bring 2 to 3 cm (1 inch) of salted water to boil. Once boiling, add the spinach for just 20 to 30 seconds until wilted and strain in a colander, squeezing out as much water as possible. —If using frozen spinach leaves, place in a medium saucepan with one or two tablespoons of water over low heat until completely thawed and just warmed through — no more.

Wash and finely slice the spring onions.

Once cooked through, take the potatoes out of the oven and slice lengthwise. Scoop out the flesh with a spoon into a medium bowl. Carefully set aside the potato skin shells. Roughly mash the potato flesh, mix in the butter, cream, and most of the cheese (keep a bit to sprinkle on top). Add the spinach, season carefully with salt, depending on the saltiness of the cheese, and a generous grind of black pepper. Mix well.

Scoop the mash back into the potato skins, place back onto the baking tray with parchment paper, sprinkle with spring onions and a bit of cheese.

Bake in the oven until browned on top, about 15 minutes.


This could be an entire meal, with just a winter salad of endive and radicchio. It can also be a luscious side for simply grilled salmon steaks.

Granola formula

23 January 2020

This is not so much a New Year’s resolution as an endeavour at winter cleaning the cupboard. Though perhaps it should be? Granola is easy to make — much simpler, for example, than a marmalade marathon — and quite satisfying. Unfortunately, the children consume so much granola, it would be near impossible to keep up a homemade production, but I do make it once in a while, often as a way to use up the ends of packets of nuts and seeds and dried fruit, particularly after the holidays.

Since in this house that is its calling, I’ve been using Chocolate & Zucchini’s granola formula, which is so smart and makes much more sense than a rigid recipe. I’ve adapted and simplified the quantities slightly, so it’s easier to remember. The idea is that granola combines a few families of ingredients — grains, nuts and seeds, dried fruit, oil, sweetener — and within these families the possibilities are endless.

Granola formula, inspired by and adapted from Chocolate & Zucchini

The idea is that granola is made up of a few families of ingredients — grains, nuts and seeds, dried fruit, oil, and sweetener — and within these families the possibilities are endless, so the ingredients listed within each category are for inspiration only.

300 g mixed rolled grains (also referred to as flakes): oats, spelt, millet, rye, quinoa, amaranth…

200 g mixed roughly chopped nuts and seeds: almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, pecans, pistachios, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds…

3 Tbsps oil: olive oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, coconut oil… (plus a little for greasing the pan)

6 Tbsps liquid sweetener: honey, maple syrup, date syrup…

1 tsp sea salt

Optional add-ins:
2 handfuls chopped dried fruit: raisins, apricots, dates, figs, cranberries…

A handful each coconut flakes, chia seeds, puffed amaranth…

5 Tbsps ground flaxseeds, soaked in 5 Tbsps water for 15 minutes

1 tsp ground spices: cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, Christmas spice mix…

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F) while preparing the ingredients (the oven doesn’t have to have reached the desired temperature before putting the granola inside).

In a large bowl, combine the grains, nuts and seeds, oil, sweetener, and sea salt with a fork or better still by hand, to ensure the ingredients are well coated and mixed together.

If using, add and mix in any additional ingredients, apart from the dried fruit which goes in at the end of the baking time.

Lightly oil a rimmed baking sheet or oven tray. Spread the prepared granola mixture evenly on the tray, and slide into the oven.

Bake for about 30 minutes, stirring regularly every 10 minutes to ensure the granola toasts evenly, until it achieves the desired shade of brown.

About 10 minutes before the end, add the dried fruit. ** The fruit can also be added once the granola is out of the oven, but I like it to be warmed through so it becomes a bit chewy.**

Let the granola cool completely — it will become crisp as it cools — then transfer and store in a lidded glass jar.

Cured salmon

28 December 2019

Marinated salmon was always served on the 26th of December, when my grandparents celebrated their anniversary with an eggnog party for friends and family. The other dish I remember was a warm crab dip (!).

I’m not certain anymore whether this was the recipe my grandmother Babu used; I don’t remember where it came from exactly — possibly a plastic-protected Elle fiche? — but I’ve had it for nearly 30 years. It has passed the test of time and always receives the highest praise. And it always reminds me of those eggnog parties.

Cured salmon
Note: This recipe must be made 48 hours ahead!
It can be scaled up or down, by adjusting the curing ingredients according to the amount of salmon used.

1 kg salmon fillets with the skin
4 Tbsps coarse grey sea salt
4 Tbsps golden caster sugar
2 tsps crushed black pepper
2 Tbsps oil (I use mild olive oil)
2 large bunches of fresh dill

Wipe the salmon with a paper towel.

Mix the salt, sugar, and black pepper in a small bowl.

Rub the oil all over the salmon, on both sides. Rub the spices into the salmon, also on both sides.

Place a sheet of parchment paper big enough to wrap the whole piece of salmon onto a dish with rim (the salmon will release some liquid as it cures). Spread half of the dill in a thick layer onto the paper and place the salmon on top. Cover with the rest of the dill. Wrap the salmon in the parchment paper. Place a plate or dish on the salmon with a heavy weight on top (full bottles of water or wine work well).

Let the weighted salmon cure in the refrigerator for 48 hours. Turn the fillet over once after 24 hours.

When ready to serve, scrape off the dill and as much pepper as possible.

Slice thinly and serve with crème fraîche and/or prepared horseradish.

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