Archive for the ‘Summer’ Category

Chicken liver terrine

8 October 2010

I love this recipe for many reasons: it’s absolutely delicious, quick to make, can (or rather should) be prepared in advance, and, well, it’s liver. I find all sorts of excuses to make it. Tomorrow it will be lunch in the country; it’s been good for parties or Easter brunch; but more simply it is the recipe upon which I fall back when we have friends for dinner and I am undecided about what to make. It helps unlock my imagination and inspires the rest of the meal. Most often I serve it with baguette as a tapas-style apéritif together with olives and nuts, radishes or cherry tomatoes – depending on the season.

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1 lb (450 g) chicken livers

3/4 cup (180 g) and 2 Tbsp (20 g) butter

1 small onion (or large shallot)

Olive oil

1 large sprig each sage and thyme

1 Tbsp Madeira wine (Marsala also works well)*

1 Tbsp brandy

Salt and pepper

***

Trim the fat from the chicken livers and set aside.

In a small saucepan, melt 3/4 cup butter over low heat. Once melted set aside.

Finely chop the onion (or shallot). In a large skillet, melt 2 Tbsp of butter together with a little olive oil (the oil prevents the butter from burning). Add the chopped onion, cook over medium heat, and as soon as it becomes translucent add the whole sage and thyme and stir to mix flavors. Immediately increase the heat to high and add the chicken livers. After a couple of minutes the livers should be slightly brown; turn them over. Sprinkle the Marsala and brandy over the livers and cook for a few minutes until the liquid has evaporated. Remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper.

When the livers are cool enough to handle, remove the sage and thyme, transfer to a cutting board, and chop finely. Place the livers in a bowl, add the scrapings from the skillet as well as the melted butter and mix well. Transfer the livers to a terrine dish (any bowl will do) and place in the refrigerator for a few hours and up to two days. It gets better after a day or so.

*The absence of Madeira or Marsala absolutely should not keep you from making this recipe. Just replace with a little brandy. On the other hand, it creates an opportunity to buy the wines, which deserve to be kept in your bar or pantry and will come in handy, for example when making stewed pears (recipe to come later this year).

Braised chicken legs with cherry tomatoes

3 October 2010

Tomatoes were everywhere at the market this week. Red, yellow, cherry, heirloom, green – it was hard to concentrate on anything else, especially knowing that tomatoes will be the first to disappear from the fall bounty. When I got home I realized I had bought only tomatoes.

The little cherry tomatoes from Keith’s Farm were very ripe and burst from the sun, and they immediately brought to mind a meal prepared by my friend Kate a few years ago: braised drumsticks with cherry tomatoes and lots of garlic. She made it in a large round earthenware dish she had just brought back from Morocco. It was stunningly beautiful and delicious. I’ve never asked Kate for the recipe but I have attempted to recreate it and make it quite regularly.

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For 4

Olive oil

8 chicken thighs and drumsticks (or alternatively, only thighs or only drumsticks)

2 medium onions (red or yellow)

Cherry tomatoes

7 or 8 whole garlic cloves with skin

2 bay leaves

Fresh basil, marjoram, or oregano according to taste or availability

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Preheat oven to 350°F (170°C)

In a large skillet heat olive oil and brown the chicken, a few pieces at a time. **When browning meat it’s important not to overcrowd the pan (the meat releases water and if the pan is too crowded it will stew rather than brown) and to let the meat get really nice and brown, which might take 7 to 10 minutes (light golden is not enough to caramelize and bring out the flavors).**

Remove chicken legs and set aside.

Thinly slice onions and add to pan in which you just browned the chicken (with a little more olive oil if necessary). Season with salt and pepper, and cook until golden.

In a large ovenproof dish make a bed with the onions,* add bay leaves and herbs, then the pieces of chicken, which should fit snugly without overlapping. Season with salt and pepper. Poke the cherry tomatoes with a fork or tip of a knife so the juice can escape, and throw them with the garlic cloves over the chicken. Season again. Place in oven and let simmer for about 30 to 40 minutes. The meat should fall off the bone.

*To limit the number of pans used and if the skillet is ovenproof, leave the onions in the skillet, add the herbs, chicken, tomatoes, and garlic, and slide it in the oven.

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Related posts

Roast chicken with lemon and fennel seeds

Spaghetti with cherry tomatoes, mozarella, and basil

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Spaghetti with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil

22 September 2010

This dish is inspired by the spaghetti alla chitarra from Malatesta Trattoria in the West Village. Its terrace was our summer haunt some years ago when we lived just around the corner. It’s a good quick dinner, especially if all you happen to have in your kitchen are cherry tomatoes, and mozzarella in the fridge.

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For 4

1 pint* cherry tomatoes

4 garlic cloves

2 mozzarella di bufala

400g spaghetti

Basil leaves

Best olive oil for seasoning

***

Place a large pot of salted water over high heat and bring to a boil. Be generous with the salt (coarse sea salt works well for this) – pasta water should be as salty as sea water.

Cut the cherry tomatoes in half. Very thinly slice the garlic cloves and throw into a hot skillet with olive oil for about 30 seconds, taking very good care that it does not become brown. Add the cherry tomatoes and fry them in the oil for a few minutes, until they start to become soft. **The skillet should be large enough so the tomato halves don’t overlap too much.** Meanwhile throw the pasta into the boiling water.

Check the pasta regularly after about 8 minutes and drain as soon as it is just al dente (or to desired consistency).

At the last minute, break up the mozzarella, add it to the tomatoes, and cook over medium heat until everything melts into a bubbling sauce. Immediately bowl the pasta, add the sauce, a few coarsely chopped basil leaves, and a thin drizzle of very good olive oil (no need to add olive oil unless it is exceptionally good and adds a kick to the dish). Serve very quickly or the melted mozzarella will begin to harden.

*Cherry tomatoes and berries are sold by the pint in the US. A dry pint is the equivalent of a generous bowl.

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Related posts

Braised chicken legs with cherry tomatoes

Avocado, cucumber, and cherry tomato with red pepper and parsley

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Late summer barbecue

6 September 2010

Leftovers from a Labor Day weekend barbecue.

After a day at the beach: NY strip steak; cold ratatouille prepared the night before; cucumber yogurt salad; summer salad of romaine lettuce, tomatoes, zucchini, radishes, and basil, inspired by a memorable al fresco dinner in the Ticino a few years ago; cheese and fresh figs.

Cucumber yogurt salad

6 September 2010

This salad should be made about 1 hour in advance.

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Cucumbers

Plain yogurt

Garlic cloves

Sea salt

Freshly ground white pepper

Mint

***

Thinly slice the cucumbers, with a mandoline for example. Add a few tablespoons of yogurt, just enough to coat the cucumber slices but not more, as the cucumbers will release some fluid. Cut a few garlic cloves into thick slices. **The garlic is used to infuse the salad but the slices must be taken out before serving, so the slices should be thick and it’s important to remember the number of pieces used.** Season with salt and white pepper.

Let sit in the fridge for about 1 hour.

Remove the slices of garlic. Cut a small handful of mint leaves very thinly and add to the salad. Serve cold.