Archive for September, 2010

Slow-roasted lamb shoulder

19 September 2010

Every summer I spend a few weeks at my sister’s house in Brittany, and I come back every time with a new culinary obsession inspired by countless hours spent around the kitchen with my family cooking, eating, and talking about food. One year my preoccupation was yogurt, another time marinated olives, and this year it is slow-roasted lamb. There simply is no better way to cook – or eat – lamb. It’s completely stress-free and utterly delicious.

This is an approximate recreation of my sister’s succulent lamb shoulder. The gist of the recipe is to rub the lamb with herbs and garlic and let it cook for hours in a very low oven.

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The quantities below are for a piece of meat of approximately 6 lbs (3 kg). The seasoning should be adjusted according to size, but the cooking time remains the same.

2 generous sprigs each of sage, rosemary, thyme, summer savory

1 Tbsp coriander seeds

2 Tbsps coarse gray sea salt

6 garlic cloves

Black pepper

Olive oil

1 bone-in lamb shoulder

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Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).

Finely chop the herbs. In a mortar, coarsely grind the coriander seeds and set aside. Next grind together the salt and garlic cloves. Mix in the herbs, coriander, and a generous amount of black pepper. Finally, drizzle 3-4 tablespoons olive oil to make a coarse paste.

Trim the fat from the lamb and rub with the herb paste on all sides. Place the lamb shoulder in a large cast-iron pot.* Put the lamb in the oven and let roast at a high temperature for 15 minutes.

Reduce heat to 300°F (150°C), seal the pot with a tight-fitting lid (or with aluminum foil if using a roasting tray), and forget the lamb in the oven for 3 or 4 hours.

The meat will fall off the bone, and it will be even more delicious reheated the next day.

*Another option is to use a roasting pan tightly sealed with aluminum foil, though the result is not quite as satisfying as the meat does not seem to brown in the same way.

Marinated olives

17 September 2010

We usually serve olives as part of an aperitif, but between dinner invitations, they often end up forgotten at the back of the fridge. To avoid throwing olives away, and to ensure a ready supply for any unexpected visitor, I started keeping a large jar of marinated olives on hand on my kitchen counter. It’s practical, avoids waste, and the olives are very good.

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Olives, any mix of green, black, Picholine, Kalamata, Cerignola, Niçoise, etc – or just one kind

Coriander seeds, coarsely ground in a mortar

Black peppercorns

Garlic cloves

Bay leaves

Dried red chillies

Lemon wedges

Olive oil

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Mix the olives with the coriander, peppercorns, whole garlic cloves, bay leaves, lemon wedges, and chillies. Put in a jar and cover generously with olive oil. **Anything that is not submerged will become moldy.** Place a lid on the jar but do not close it hermetically, as the olives need to breathe.

Late summer barbecue

6 September 2010

Leftovers from a Labor Day weekend barbecue.

After a day at the beach: NY strip steak; cold ratatouille prepared the night before; cucumber yogurt salad; summer salad of romaine lettuce, tomatoes, zucchini, radishes, and basil, inspired by a memorable al fresco dinner in the Ticino a few years ago; cheese and fresh figs.

Cucumber yogurt salad

6 September 2010

This salad should be made about 1 hour in advance.

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Cucumbers

Plain yogurt

Garlic cloves

Sea salt

Freshly ground white pepper

Mint

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Thinly slice the cucumbers, with a mandoline for example. Add a few tablespoons of yogurt, just enough to coat the cucumber slices but not more, as the cucumbers will release some fluid. Cut a few garlic cloves into thick slices. **The garlic is used to infuse the salad but the slices must be taken out before serving, so the slices should be thick and it’s important to remember the number of pieces used.** Season with salt and white pepper.

Let sit in the fridge for about 1 hour.

Remove the slices of garlic. Cut a small handful of mint leaves very thinly and add to the salad. Serve cold.

 

Ratatouille

6 September 2010

I make ratatouille very methodically. One vegetable at a time. Cut to the same size (or as close as possible). Added progressively. There’s a rhythm to it. It’s quite meditative.

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Olive oil

3 medium onions

2 red peppers

2 medium eggplant

3 cloves garlic

4 zucchinis

4 plum tomatoes

Bay leaves, rosemary, thyme, and summer savory (if available)

Salt and pepper

Sherry vinegar

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Thinly slice the onions. Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, such as Le Creuset or cast-iron, large enough to hold the whole ratatouille. Add the onions to the oil, season with salt and pepper, and let them slowly melt until translucent, checking and stirring occasionally to avoid sticking to the pan.

While the onions melt, cut the red peppers into 1/2 in (1 cm) squares*. Add them to the onions. Season with salt and pepper and let stew, checking and stirring occasionally to avoid sticking.

While the onions and peppers are stewing, cut the eggplant into 1/2  in (1 cm) cubes. Add eggplant and whole, peeled garlic cloves to saucepan, season with salt and pepper, and let stew, checking and stirring occasionally to avoid sticking.

(At this point it is a good idea to stir and check the bottom of the pan and add some olive oil if necessary.)

While the onions, peppers, and eggplant are stewing, slice the zucchini, not too thinly. Add to saucepan, season with salt and pepper, and let stew, checking and stirring occasionally to avoid sticking.

Next peal the tomatoes and dice them into 1/2  in (1 cm) cubes. Add to saucepan, season with salt and pepper and let stew, checking and stirring occasionally to avoid sticking.

Bind together with kitchen twine a sprig of rosemary, and a few sprigs each of thyme and summer savory if available. Add the herbs with 2 bay leaves to the ratatouille, stir from the bottom up, and let stew slowly a further 15-20 minutes approximately until the vegetables are cooked but not mushy. If you are serving the ratatouille cold, remove from heat a little early as the vegetables will continue to cook while the ratatouille cools.

Check salt and pepper seasoning and add 2-3 tablespoons of sherry vinegar to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.

*The actual dimension is not so important. The key is for all the vegetables to be cut to approximately the same size.